There is a waterway that winds through southern Africa: Ancient, constant, alive. It rises quietly in the wetlands of north-western Zambia, flowing through miombo woodland and grassy plains. Over more than 2500 kilometres, it gathers force, carving a path through six countries (Zambia, Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique) before plunging, with thunder and mist, into the gorge at Victoria Falls.
This is the Zambezi River. From source to smoke, it carries more than water. It gives life, shapes cultures, and weaves stories passed from one generation to the next.
Below, we share some of the river’s story; one that will form an integral part of your stay at Ilala Lodge Hotel.
The Very Beginning
When standing before the majesty of Victoria Falls, it’s striking to consider the Zambezi’s humble origin: A marshy spring near Kalene Hill, close to Zambia’s border with Angola.
This peaceful source is considered sacred by local communities, the beginning of something mighty. It’s almost impossible to imagine, from these still headwaters, the drama and grandeur to come!
As it journeys south and east, the river changes shape, name, and meaning. Among the Lozi people of western Zambia, it is called liambai, “the great river.”
The Swelling River
By the time it reaches western Zambia, the Zambezi expands into the vast Barotse Floodplain, a seasonal inland sea that swells with the rains.
Here, the river plays a vital role in Lozi traditions, most notably during Kuomboka, a vibrant ceremony marking the Litunga’s (king’s) annual move from lowland Lealui to the higher ground of Limulunga. The royal barge journey, accompanied by music and fanfare, reflects both the rhythm of the river and how it shapes the lives of those who reside on its banks.
The Grand Descent
Near the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia, the river narrows between basalt cliffs and plunges more than 100 metres into a deep chasm at Victoria Falls…
Victoria Falls, Mosi-oa-Tunya, “the smoke that thunders”, is not just a waterfall, but a full-sensory experience.
The roar can often be heard from Ilala Lodge Hotel, though never intrusively. A constant mist rises from the gorge, nourishing the lush rainforest opposite, which guests can explore via the scenic Cliff Path.
In many ways, the Falls marks a shift in the Zambezi’s journey. We think of the river now as, ‘upstream from the Falls’ and ‘downstream from the Falls’.
After the Falls
For many visitors to Ilala Lodge Hotel, Victoria Falls is their first encounter with the Zambezi, but the river’s story continues long after this great descent.
Beyond the Falls, the Zambezi snakes through a twisting gorge system more than 100 km long. These churning rapids draw thrill-seekers from around the world for white-water rafting and river adventures.
Further downstream lies Lake Kariba, one of the world’s largest man-made reservoirs. Its construction in the 1950s displaced thousands and gave fuel to the existing legend of Nyami Nyami, the river god. Many believe the dam enraged him by dividing his watery kingdom and separating him from his wife.
Past Kariba, the river flows through Mana Pools National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Zimbabwe, famed for its wildlife. Finally, the Zambezi reaches Mozambique, fanning into a broad delta before merging quietly with the Indian Ocean at Chinde: A serene ending to an epic journey.
Stay With Us
Ilala Lodge Hotel offers more than a luxurious stay, it’s your front-row seat to the Zambezi’s greatest crescendo.
Watch the spray rise from your balcony, listen for the distant thunder, and feel the river’s presence in the air. Just beyond your window, the Zambezi continues its timeless path to the ocean.
You might think it strange that our beautiful hotel is named after a palm tree. After all, aren’t palm trees best suited to tropical locations? Not this one.
The Ilala Palm, also known locally as the Molala or Vegetable Ivory Palm, is native to this region. Look out for it in Zimbabwe, Angola, Botswana, Namibia and northern South Africa.
Not only is it lovely to look at, growing up to 7 m tall (15 m in rare cases) with broad, fan-shaped leaves, but the fruit is also highly sought-after by humans and animals alike.
Young fruit, which are generally green in colour, contain a white fluid similar to coconut milk. As the fruit matures over two years, it darkens to an orange colour and finally settles on a rich, dark brown. The fruit’s exterior is hard and needs to be broken using force to access the sweet gingery pulp inside. Baboons will often use rocks to accomplish this task.
The crown heart of the tree is also edible and is known in Botswana as ‘gau,’ where they prepare and consume it much like a vegetable. Although the fruit of the Ilala Palm takes a long time to ripen, a mature tree can produce up to 2000 at a time, making them a rich food source for large animals like elephants, who also like to eat the leaves. Its seeds are dispersed by elephants and baboons, who consume and deposit them over long distances.
Where humans are concerned, the Ilala Palm is commonly tapped for what’s known as “Palm Wine.” The sap is fermented for a few days before the drink is ready to consume. The liquor is rather sour and has a slight effervescence to it – sample at your own risk!
Young Ilala Palms are useful for other reasons, too. Their fronds are used in basketry and their hard, white seeds are perfect for carving into trinkets, tools and jewellery. In this way, the Ilala Palm also creates industry for local communities.
Here at Ilala Lodge Hotel, we boast a number of young and mature examples of the Ilala Palm on our grounds. Our sister property, Palm River Hotel, also derives its name from the Ilala Palm. You could say it’s become something of a symbol for us…
The name was originally suggested by Thelma Newmarch, an interior designer with close ties to our hotel family. She suggested the name because of the abundance of Ilala Palms in our area.
In a fitting twist, ilala is actually the Ndebele (local language) word for “lie down,” the perfect moniker for us as a hospitality provider. Ilala Lodge Hotel is indeed a place to lay down your head and soak up our warm hospitality.
Ilala Lodge Hotel, Victoria Falls
Ilala Lodge Hotel is a luxury, 5-star property conveniently located in the heart of Victoria Falls. We are walking distance from most attractions in town and offer unparalleled service to local and international travellers.
If you’d like a front seat to Africa’s Adventure Capital, contact us today and start planning your Zimbabwean vacation.
If you are researching visiting the magnificent Victoria Falls – and we do hope you are – you may come across many names that you may be unfamiliar with. Read on to discover the rich history and imagery behind them here:
Victoria Falls
The Victoria Falls waterfall was discovered by Dr .David Livingstone in November 1855, and as he was British, he named it after his Queen, Victoria.
David Livingstone
Mosi-oa-Tunya
This is the local name for the Victoria Falls in the Tonga language – it is translated as “the smoke that thunders”.
Victoria Falls, one of the seven wonders of the world
Chongwe/Seongo
This name has been cited in historical records as also used for the Victoria Falls and means “The Place of the Rainbow”.
Rainbow over the Victoria Falls
Devil’s Cataract
The Devil’s cataract is the first and lowest of the five Falls. It is named after the island next to it, which is called Cataract Island or Baoruka Island. Baoruka is the Tonga word for “divider of waters”. There is also speculation that the when the falls were originally discovered, the missionaries saw the local tribes performing rituals on the island and called them “devilish”.
The Devil’s Cataract, located on the westerly section of Victoria Falls
Ra-Ikane River Cruises
Fashioned after David Livingstone’s exploration boat, the Ma-Robert, the Ra-Ikane boats are named after the instrumental guide, Lazarus Ra-Ikane, who accompanied and assisted Livingstone in his monumental discovery of the natural wonder, Victoria Falls.
A historical boat from David Livingstone’s time
Ilala Lodge Hotel
‘Ilala’ is also the Ndebele word for ‘lie down’. Read more about the history of Ilala Lodge Hotel here.
Twin room at Ilala Lodge Hotel
Zambezi River
The Zambezi (meaning “Great River” in the language of the Tonga people). In 1498 Vasco da Gama became the first European to see the Zambezi River. He called the Zambezi the “River of Good Omens” (Rio dos Bons Sinais).
Zambezi River view from Ilala Lodge Hotel
Zimbabwe
The name “Zimbabwe”, broken down to Dzimba dzamabwe in Shona (one of the two major languages in the country), means “houses of stone”.
As we welcome guests to our newest Deluxe Wing this month, we feel the need to reminisce and recount our humble journey from a 14-room boutique hotel to a luxury hotel with 73 rooms, in less than three decades.
Our strong family values and vision have not changed from when the doors first opened in 1991. We pride ourselves on being a family run hotel and having a tight-knit team of which there are seven people who have been with us for over 20 years – an amazing feat in itself.
We look forward to welcoming visitors from all over the world to share this little piece of paradise and to show them the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls, located only 936 steps away from the hotel.
One of the Natural Wonders of the World at sunrise. Photo credit: Shaun McMinn Photography
The history of Ilala Lodge Hotel is an interesting one and we would like to take you back to the very beginning.
The Victoria Falls- just a short walk from the Hotel. As you can see- the newest addition to the Hotel on the far left of image. Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler Photography
The Birth of Ilala Lodge Hotel
It all began when Strath Brown, a well-known entrepreneur in Zimbabwe, decided he wanted to build a bar and restaurant with business partner, Rob Gee. The plan quickly evolved however, when Dr. Bernard Chidzero, the minister of Finance at the time, passed a document stating that anyone who wanted to promote tourism would be offered a 100% initial allowance as a tax incentive for hotel construction.
Their accountant at the time, John Knight, managed to persuade Strath and Rob that this was an opportunity they could not turn down and with that, a dream to sell beer for 40 cents, turned into creating a legacy of a hotel that will be passed down for generations.
The name of the hotel came about when Thelma Newmarch, their interior decorator, suggested Ilala Lodge, after the ilala palms that grow in the area, in addition to the word llala which translates from the Ndebele name for “lie down.”
Ilala Palms that grow in the Victoria Falls area and along the Zambezi River. Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler Photography
The Hotel Construction
It was quickly agreed that a 14-room hotel was to be built and in October 1989 they struck ground. Strath and Rob’s trusted architect, Richard Beattie, and interior designer, Thelma Newmarch, worked tirelessly with the builder Biffen, to create an inviting atmosphere that was the foundation for the success that the hotel still enjoys today. The rooms leading onto the sprawling lush lawns, the outside dining area with a view of the spray from the Falls, and the fan-shaped dining room were all intentionally added to the plans as they were favourite features from the hotels Beryl, Strath’s wife, had visited around Zimbabwe.
Strath and his son Keith, being invested financially and emotionally in the project got stuck into the actual building of the hotel, even thatching the roof themselves, with grass they brought up from their family farm in Darwendale.
Diners still enjoy meals Al Fresco at The Palm Restaurant under the “Golden Tree”. Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler Photography
Beryl was an avid and talented gardener, and established the appealing and attractive gardens that surrounds the hotel today. The unique Indian Laburnums, also known as the ‘Golden Tree’, are a part of Beryl’s contribution, and when in bloom, they light up the whole front of the hotel.
The Official Opening
In 1991, the official opening ceremony was a resounding success and the local Chief, a highly respected member of the community of Victoria Falls, presided over the event. The Minister of Tourism, Herbert Murewa and other dignitaries were also in attendance. As tradition allows, the Chief blessed the hotel, signifying what was to be a great start.
Some of our friendly staff have been welcoming guests to Ilala Lodge Hotel for over 20 years! Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler Photography
The Vice-President at the time, Joshua Nkomo, had been invited as the guest of honour to attend the ceremony but unfortunately had to cancel at the last minute. A few months later however, Beryl found herself seated next to Joshua Nkomo, on an aircraft flying from Harare to Victoria Falls, where she confidently introduced herself and invited him to visit the hotel during his trip. A day later, as Beryl was tending to the front gardens of the hotel, the Vice-President appeared and greeted her by saying “You are my mother. I have come to see you.” He accepted her invitation for a tour of the hotel and they enjoyed a relaxing tea on the front lawn together!
The First Guests
In April 1991, Ilala Lodge welcomed its first guests to stay who were family friends of the Brown’s from Darwendale. It didn’t take long for word to spread and in those days, there were no cell phones or Google searches. Soon enough Ilala Lodge Hotel was on every tour operator and agents bucket list. As Strath writes in his autobiography: “All agreed that it would be worth sending their clients to Ilala”.
The Palm Restaurant in the 1990’s- we have made some upgrades since then! Photo Credit: Hide & Seek Travel
Keeping it in the Family
Family ownership and management of the hotel, has provided the continuity needed to ensure that the developments have kept the original charm and appeal, keeping guests coming back again and again.
Rooms leading out to the lush green lawns. Photo credit: Victoria Falls DirectTwin rooms with the most modern amenities of the time. Photo credit: Hotel FotosPhoto credit: Gondwana Tours & Safaris
A decade later, in 2001, Strath’s daughter, Laura Brown who was the General Manager at the time, oversaw the addition of a further 16 rooms which doubled the capacity of the hotel, bringing it to a total of 32 rooms.
After the 2001 renovations. Photo credit: Ilala Lodge Hotel
Further Expansions
In 2015, after almost another decade of success and growth in Victoria Falls, it was time to to build again. Another round of renovations took place which expanded the hotel to 56 rooms which included a section of Standard Rooms, Deluxe Rooms and Executive Suites. The renovations were overseen by Strath’s sons: Andrew and Jim and their wives Deidre and Gerry Brown. Andrew and Jim were involved in the building aspect while the ladies were involved in the décor and landscaping, following the original founders’ interests all those years ago.
The Hotel grows again in 2015. Photo credit: Ilala Lodge Hotel
Inside the new wing- fresh Deluxe rooms. Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler Photography
Latest Expansion: The New Deluxe Wing
The latest addition to the hotel has been in the pipeline for a few years now, but due caution was necessary as tourism had declined over the past few years with the eco-political situation of the country. However, Jim, as his father had all those years ago, took a leap of faith and bought land in stages over the last eight years as he firmly believes in the future of the country. This faith has certainly paid off and according report, Victoria Falls has seen a 25% increase in tourism revenue since November 2017 and is projected to grow further.
Construction gets started in 2017 on the expanded Deluxe Wing. Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler PhotographyA view from above of the extension. Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler Photography
Thanks to the enduring sunshine and an excellent construction and management team, the latest expansion of the Deluxe Wing of another sixteen luxurious rooms all facing the famous Victoria Falls, ran smoothly and right on schedule. Ilala Lodge Hotel officially welcomed guests on the 15th June 2018 to the new wing.
One of the 16 stunning new Deluxe rooms. Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler PhotographyThe bathroom with the latest stylish amenities. Photo credit: Lesanne Fowler Photography
This latest room expansion takes the hotel to a total of 73 rooms, 124 friendly staff and 27 years of being a family-run hotel in Victoria Falls. To accommodate more guests, Ilala Lodge Hotel has also added on an all-new plunge pool as well as a new, modern poolside lounge which opened in 2019.
We could not be more pleased and we look forward to welcoming you to our very special hotel.
One of the most fascinating rivers in Africa, the Zambezi is not only a major tourist attraction, but a lifeline and constant source of income for millions. (more…)
Folklore is an integral part of African culture, having been passed down through many generations. Even today, most Africans retain a sense of superstition and awareness of their original traditions and customs.
Similar to the well-known Aesop’s Tales and other fables of our youth, stories and folklore often have a moral or survival element to the tale with animals as the main characters. One of the most well-known creatures of the Zimbabwean mythological landscape is Nyami Nyami, the God of the Zambezi River.
This serpent-like creature is said to reside under a rock in Lake Kariba and is thought to be about three metres long, although it is taboo to speculate about this. Wooden representations of this deity are usually to be found on sale close to the hotels in Victoria Falls, at the Falls themselves, and all along the roadside nearby.
Tribesmen who have ventured close to the resting place of the River God have found themselves sucked down into the surrounding whirlpools, never to be seen again. This site is known as Kariwa, ‘the trap’, and lends its name to Kariba Dam. The locals believed that the building of Kariba Dam would anger Nyami Nyami, but the contractors put this down to superstition and work pressed on regardless, although it was fraught with difficulty.
Tentative survey work on the dam began in the late 1940’s but a few months in, a cyclone from the Indian Ocean swept over this landlocked country, with 15 inches of rain falling in a few hours, killing all of the surveyors in a landslide. The river rose seven metres overnight, sweeping animals and villagers away in its wake, and totally disrupting the peaceful valley.
In 1955, work began again in earnest, only to be halted by an unexpected flood which washed away the foundations of the coffer dam and bridge.
Again in November 1956, heavy rains caused another flash flood, which swept away machinery and men in its path, seriously hampering work on the dam.
In 1958 yet another flood raced down the river, with 16 million litres of water surging over the suspension bridge every second, destroying the north tower and buckling the bridge.
Eventually Nyami Nyami’s perceived efforts to stop construction ceased and the dam was completed at the cost of 80 lives. Up until today, earth tremors are occasionally felt in and around Kariba which the locals see as an indication of Nyami Nyami’s ongoing wrath.
David Livingstone
Victoria Falls, one of the seven wonders of the world
Rainbow over the Victoria Falls
The Devil’s Cataract, located on the westerly section of Victoria Falls
A historical boat from David Livingstone’s time
Twin room at Ilala Lodge Hotel
Zambezi River view from Ilala Lodge Hotel
The Great Zimbabwe Ruins
